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Hotels
Pensão Arco da Bandeira, Rua dos Sapateiros 226-4°, Baixa
(tel 21 342 3478). Despite being opposite a peep-show club, this
respectable pensão is highly recommended with six comfortable
rooms, some overlooking Rossío. £10?15/$16?24.
Casa de Hóspedes Atalaia, Rua da Atalaia 150-1°, Bairro Alto
(tel 21 346 4459). Tolerable at the price, but standards vary and
you can find yourself uncomfortably remote from the shared
bathrooms. £5?10/$8?16.
Residential Camões, Trav. do Poço da Cidade 38-1° (tel 21
346 7510). Brilliant location right in the heart of Bairro Alto,
though invest in some earplugs for streetside rooms at weekends.
Breakfast included in high season, English spoken.
£10?15/$16?24.
Pensão Coimbra e Madrid, Praça da Figueira 3-3°, Baixa (tel
21 342 1760). Superb views, though the rooms are noisy. Decent
proprietors, shabby though clean furnishings and a TV room, too.
£15?20/$24?32.
Pensão Dona Maria II, Rua Portas de Santo Antão 9-3°, Baixa
(no phone). Large airy rooms (with washbasin) and nice views
over Rossío, newly renovated. £5?10/$8?16.
Hotel Duas Nações, Rua da Vitória 41, Baixa (tel 21 346 0710,
hotel_duas_nacoes@hotmail.com). Faded, nineteenth-century
hotel. Rooms with bath are more attractive in every way, but cost
quite a bit more. £10?15/$16?24.
Pensão Duque, Calçada do Duque 53, Bairro Alto (tel 21 346
3444, pensao_duque@yahoo.com). Near São Roque church,
down the steps off the square. Basic rooms but recently
redecorated ? separate bathrooms. £10?15/$16?24.
Residencial Florescente, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 99,
Baixa (tel 21 342 6609). One of the street's best-value
establishments, with lots of rooms, some with TV, some without
windows, so ask about alternatives. £10?15/$16?24.
Pensão Galicia, Rua do Crucifixo 50-4°, Baixa (tel 21 342 47
81). Cute little rooms, the best with sunnybalconies, and fine Baixa
location. £10?15/$16?24.
Pensão Globo, Rua do Teixeira 37, Bairro Alto (tel 21 346
2279). Up Trav. da Cara from Elevador da Glória and then right.
Rooms are clean, management fine and the location superb. Shared
shower and toilet at the top although there are some rooms with
shower. £5?10/$8?16.
Pensão Lafonense, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 36-2°, Baixa
(21 346 7122). With decor that makes you feel as if you're staying
at your aged aunt's, this tiny pensão is homely and centrally
located. £10?15/$16?24.
Pensão Lar do Areeiro, Praça Dr. Francisco de Sá Carneiro
4-1°; metro Areeiro (tel 21 849 3150). Respectable,
old-fashioned place. All rooms with bath; those at the back escape
the noise of the Praça; price includes breakfast. £25?30/$40?48.
Pensão Luar, Rua das Gáveas 101-1°, Bairro Alto (tel 21 346
0949). Calm, polished interior whose decently furnished rooms,
some with showers, are not too noisy. £15?20/$24?32.
Pensão Moderna, Rua dos Correeiros 205-4°, Baixa (tel 21 346
0818). Run-down Baixa pensão with big rooms in need of
decoration, crammed with old furniture. £10?15/$16?24.
Pensão Monumental, Rua da Glória 21, Baixa (tel 21 346
9807). A backpackers' favourite with a mixed bag of rooms in a
rambling old building. £10?15/$16?24.
Pensão Ninho das Águias, Costa do Castelo 74, Alfama (tel 21
885 4070). On the northernmost point of the street looping around
the castle, with a lovely garden terrace overlooking the city. Rooms
are bright, white and light. £20?25/$32?40.
Pensão Prata, Rua da Prata 71-3°, Baixa (tel 21 346 8908).
Small rooms, some with showers, up three extremely steep flights
of stairs in a welcoming, family-run apartment. Book ahead.
£20?25/$32?40.
Pensão São João de Praça, Rua São João de Praça 97-2°,
Alfama (tel 21 886 2591). Clean, quiet and friendly place in a
newly painted town house just below the cathedral. Front rooms
have wrought-iron balconies. During high season half-board is
compulsory. £25?30/$40?48.
Restaurants
Restaurante Andorra, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 82,
Baixa. One of the less expensive fish restaurants on this street, with
outdoor tables.
Bota Alta, Trav. da Queimada 37, Bairro Alto. Old tavern
restaurant that pulls in the punters for its large portions of traditional
Portuguese food. Closed Sat lunch & Sun.
Brasuca, Rua João Pereira da Rosa 7, Bairro Alto (tel 21 342
8542). A lively restaurant, set in an ageing mansion with great
Brazilian food. Expensive. Closed Mon.
O Cantinho do Bem Estar, Rua do Norte 46, Bairro Alto.
Inexpensive Alentejan restaurant that's as friendly and authentic as
you can get. Closed Mon.
Carvoeiro, Rua Vieira Portuense 66?68. One of many
inexpensive fish restaurants in this street. Outdoor tables.
Casa Faz Frio, Rua Dom Pedro V 96, Bairro Alto. A beautiful,
very traditional restaurant, replete with tiles. Around 2000$00 for a
full meal and wine.
Cervejaria da Trindade, Rua Nova da Trindade 20. Wonderful,
vaulted beer-hall restaurant. Expensive. Open till 2am.
Hell?s Kitchen, Rua da Atalaia 176. Right at the top of the Bairro
Alto and well worth finding for a menu of world foods that includes
several vegetarian dishes.
Mestré André, Calçadinha de Santo Estêvão 4?6, Alfama. A fine
neighbourhood tavern, with good grills (churrasco). Outdoor
seating in summer. Closed Sun.
El Rei d'Frango, Caçada do Duque 5. Small and friendly
charrusqueira near the upper-entrance of Rossío station serving
filling pratos from 750?1000$00. Open daily 9am?8.30pm.
Rei dos Frangos/Bom Jardim, Trav. de Santo Antão 7?11,
Baixa. Excellent for spit-roast chicken ? a whole one with fries for
about 1600$00.
A Severa, Rua dos Gavéas 57. Good, moderately priced
late-night eating option (open till 3.30am). Closed Fri and Sun.
Sinal Vermelha, Rua das Gaveas 89, Bairro Alto (tel 21 346
1252). Popular, trendy city haunt serving recommended
Portuguese food. Expensive. Closed Sun.
O Sol, Calçada do Duque 21?23. On the stairs between Bairro
Alto and Rossio, this tiny vegetarian and macrobiotic canteen
serves a range of inexpensive pratos, snacks and fresh fruit juices
from noon to 8pm. Closed Sun.
Solmar, Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 108, Baixa (tel 21 342
3371). A vast showpiece seafood restaurant, with fountain and
marine mosaics, and generally deserving of its reputation.
Expensive.
Sul, Rua do Norte 13, Bairro Alto. Idiosyncratic restaurant and
tapas bar that serves excellent Uruguayan steak dishes ? only
cooked rare ? and a wine list solely consisting of little-known
Portuguese vintages. Daily 6pm?2am.
Yin Yang, Rua dos Correiros 14-1°. Macrobiotic vegetarian
lunches (noon?1pm) and light snacks 6?8pm. Closed Sat & Sun.
Cafés
Antiga Casa dos Pasteis, Rua de Belém 90, Belém. Excellent
tiled pastry-shop/café.
Café a Brasileira, Rua Garrett 120. The most famous of Rua
Garrett's old-style coffee houses, open until 2am.
Café Nicola, Praça Dom Pedro IV 26. On the west side of
Rossío, this grand old place is a good stop for breakfast.
Café Pastelaria Bernard, Rua Garrett 104. Superb cakes and an
outdoor terrace on Chiado's most fashionable street.
Café Suiça, Praça Dom Pedro IV 96. Famous for its cakes and
pastries, so it can be tough getting an outdoor table here.
Cerca Moura, Largo das Portas do Sol. Nice views ? and
suprisingly inexpensive ? up in the Alfama.
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